Roll a Slab

Hand-Building

Roll a Slab

When hand-building your own pottery, there are 3 ways to begin making your basic forms.

Slab building is one of those 3 methods! This how-to guide will lead you through the steps to rolling out a slab to begin making your very own pieces!

Time

15 Minutes

Skill

Beginner

Age

Ages 8+

Supplies + Tools

Clay (low, mid or high fire, air-dry) – amount depends on project
Workspace cover: non-stick surface
Wire tool
Rolling pin
Needle tool or wooden skewer
Optional: Rolling slats/rolling pin guides, rubber rib, food/kitchen scale

1. Cut, weigh, + wedge

Cut off about 2 lb of clay (or a grapefruit-sized ball), then wedge it well to remove air bubbles.

2. Set up rolling guides

Use our rolling pin guides, slats/DIY sticks, or no guides, this keeps your slab thickness as even as possible.

3. First pass + rough shape

Pat the clay flat, then roll from the center outward with light–medium pressure, aiming for a shape that fits your project (circle/rectangle/oval).

4. Flip + rotate

Flip and rotate the slab regularly so it doesn’t stretch in one direction and both sides stay evenly compressed.

5. Pop + fix air bubbles

Pop small bubbles with a needle tool and smooth; for bigger divots, push clay back in and compress with a soft rib.

6. Smooth + compress both sides

Use a soft rib on the front and back to smooth, compress, and clean up the slab until it feels even and ready to build with.

Keep your work surfaces and tools clean and wet to avoid dust.
Wear a dust mask if working with dry materials.
Wear protective gear when using a heat gun.
Follow all kiln safety instructions for bisque and glaze firings.
Pick up any dropped clay, and wipe any wet spills with a damp sponge as soon as you notice them to minimize dust.

If you need to stop or take a break, cover your clay with plastic wrap to keep it moist.
Try not to stretch or warp your slab! Be careful when picking it up and don’t let it hang. Support it with both hands or with a board/mat underneath so it doesn’t stretch out of shape. Clay has memory and it can cause warping and cracks as it dries or when it’s fired.
When flipping your slab, use another work mat, board, or something firm. Place it on top so the slab is sandwiched between two surfaces, hold them together, and flip the whole sandwich over.
If the slab feels too soft, let it rest for a bit before cutting, shaping or moving.
If the slab feels too dry, cracking, or crumbling, you can try spraying a little bit of water on it, covering it with plastic wrap, and letting it rest to rehydrate it.

1. Cut, Weigh, + Wedge Clay

Cut a chunk of clay from your bag or block using a wire cutter, then weigh it on a food or kitchen scale. For most projects, about 2 pounds of clay is a great starting amount, adjust up or down depending on the size of the piece you’re making. If you don’t have a scale, you can eyeball it: aim for a ball of clay about the size of a large grapefruit and adjust as needed based on your project.

Once you’ve cut off and weighed the clay for this project, wedge it well using your preferred method to remove air bubbles and align the clay particles.

Slam Wedging – Slice the clay block in half, stack the two pieces, and slam them together firmly. Repeat cutting, stacking, and slamming several times to mix and de-air the clay.
Ram’s Head Wedging – Press the clay down and forward on the table, then fold it back over itself. Repeat in a steady rhythm until the clay looks smooth and layered like a “ram’s head.”
Spiral / Shell Wedging – Push and twist the clay in a circular motion so it spirals. Keep turning the lump as you go until you see a tight, shell-like spiral pattern.

2. Rolling Guides

Option A – Using Our Rolling Pin Guides

If you’re using our rolling pin guides, slide rolling guides #1 (black) onto each end of your rolling pin. These control the thickness of your slab. The pink rings are used later to press stencils into your slab.

TIP: Our rolling pin guides are sized to include the thickness of our work mats, so you'll want to keep the guides in contact with the table, not sitting on the clay or mat.

Option B – Using Slats / Guide Sticks (or DIY Substitutes)

If you’re using wooden slats or guide sticks:

Place one slat on each side of your clay, parallel to each other.
Your slats should sit on the same surface your clay is on. Unlike our rolling pin rings, they do not account for the thickness of your work mat (if you're using one).
Roll the pin so it rides on top of the slats, this keeps your slab an even thickness.

No slats? You can substitute with things that are straight and all the same thickness, such as:

Paint stir sticks
Wooden rulers
Strips of cardboard or chipboard
Craft sticks stacked to the same height

Just make sure your substitutes match in thickness on both sides.

Option C – No Guides

If you’re not using any guides:

Pay extra attention to your pressure as you roll.
Check your slab as you go to make sure you’re not creating areas that are noticeably thinner or thicker.

3. Slab Shape + First Pass

Pat your clay to flatten it slightly with your hands, this makes it easier to roll out with the rolling pin.

Place your rolling pin in the middle of the clay and roll outward toward the edges with light to medium pressure. Lift, return to the center, and roll out again in a new direction rather than “see-sawing” on one spot.

Don’t go to full size yet. This is just your first pass, you’re just getting it roughly flattened.
Aim for a slab that’s a bit thicker than your final target.
You’ll refine the thickness and shape on the second pass.

Keep your desired final shape in mind:

Bowls/trays/plates → softer circle/oval/rectangle.
Cups/cylinders → long rectangle.

4. Flip + Rotate

As your clay gets thinner, rotate your slab regularly so it doesn’t stretch too far in just one direction. This helps keep the shape more even. Keep in mind the general shape you will need for your project.

Bowls/trays/plates → softer circle/oval/rectangle.
Cups/cylinders → long rectangle.

Every few passes with the rolling pin, flip the clay over. Flipping helps:

Reduce unwanted texture from your work surface or canvas
Prevent cracking along the edges
Keep both sides of the slab nicely compressed

Continue to flip, rotate, and roll until you’ve reached the desired thickness and overall size for your slab.

5. Pop Any Air Bubbles

If you notice any air bubbles on the surface while you’re rolling, gently pop them with a needle tool or other pointed tool. Then lightly press and smooth the spot with your fingertip to blend it back into the slab.

If a larger bubble or soft spot collapses and leaves a small hole or divot:

Gently push the surrounding clay back into the gap with your fingers.
Use a soft rib to compress and smooth the area, working in multiple directions.
Flip the slab and repeat from the back if needed so the clay is fully compressed on both sides.

Your goal is to remove the air pocket and return that area to the same thickness and density as the rest of the slab.

6. Smooth Out Your Slab

Once your slab is rolled to the thickness and size you want, take a minute to smooth everything out. Use a soft rib to gently drag across the surface in multiple directions. This:

Compresses the clay
Reduces cracking
Helps erase small lines, dents, and tool marks

Flip the slab and repeat on the back so both sides are well compressed. Your slab is ready when it feels even, smooth, and has no obvious bumps, dents, or sticky spots.

TIP: When you need to flip your slab to smooth it out, use another work mat, board, or something firm to help keep your slab from stretching, sagging, or tearing while you flip it.

Place the second board or mat on top of your slab so it’s sandwiched between the two.
Hold them together firmly, then flip the whole sandwich over.
Lift off the original board/mat so your slab is now face-up on the new surface.

SHARE WHAT YOU MADE

We want to see what you made! Tag us @smashedstudio or #smashedstudioproject

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